Hook
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This one trick will not save your dog's life. Step 1 is teaching your dog how to booty pop. Take a piece of food and lure them into a down, with that piece of food. I try to lure their head to the side. I aim to try and get the chin to the shoulder. There's the booty pop. I mark yes. And feed. This is the hardest part. If you need to break it down, reward just head turning. Eventually it will lead to a booty pop, as they can be prone to booty scooting like this. If this happens, just move slow. The next step is to get them to pancake on their side. If you have a confident booty popper, this step comes naturally. Once popped, continue luring until their shoulder touches the floor. Do not be fooled. It looks like I am throwing him around. I am not touching him. He is just a little extra. Now it is time to add duration. Once he has become a pancake, I feed him several times in a row. I then use the release cue free to let him know he can get back up. This teaches him to stay deceased until told otherwise. Now we turn the lure into a gesture. I put a piece of food between my totally normal fingers. I repeat the same process gradually over successful repetitions. I add more distance between my shooting fingers and his nose. I remove the food from my hand. And now he simply responds to the pew pew. It is at this point, that you can add a verbal cue. I opt for the classic next. I pet him from a sit. I stroke him from a stand. I party with him on the go. Sometimes your dog refuses to stay perished. Watch how he keeps getting back up. Not very sleepy of him. An answer to this is multiple rounds. After all, he is a Hungarian Vespa and they come sturdy. Yes. Alternatively, revisit the duration building phase. This behaviour does seem useless, but it can be really good for cutting their nails, grooming and other medical examinations. Mostly it's great to just have fun with your dog.