Azelic Acid Tips from a derm PA

I'm a derm PA and this is what you need to know about azelaic acid. Why use azelaic acid? For reference, azelaic acid is a multi-tasker ingredient that targets acne, clogged pores, skin texture, overall brightening of the skin, dark spots, redness and rosacea. It's gentle enough for almost anyone. Tip one: Don't fall for marketing, always check the label. A lot of products say azelaic acid on the front, but when you check the ingredients, that's not the case. You may see derivatives that are more gentle and totally fine to use, they're just not as strong or as proven as pure azelaic acid. So if you want the real thing, make sure the label says an actual percentage of azelaic acid written out, like 10% azelaic acid. You'll still get some benefits and it's great if you can't tolerate the pure form. Tip two: Understand the formula. Azelaic acid is basically a powder that barely dissolves in water. So some formulas can feel gritty because they're suspended as tiny crystals, and that's totally normal. So your azelaic acid is still doing its job. And a lot of formulas nowadays use a water-soluble or dissolving formula to get a smoother finish. Tip three: Combining with actives. Risk = only irritation so intro slowly. You can actually use it with your other active ingredients. A lot of people think you have to avoid it with vitamin C, benzoyl peroxide, retinoids, clindamycin, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, but there's no real chemical clash between them. The only concern is irritation from stacking too many at once or introducing them incorrectly. So you can use them, you just want to focus on introducing one new active at a time and then building up slowly over the course of weeks to months so you know how your skin tolerates it and see how it fits into your routine, whether that's morning or night. Tip four: Prepare for acne purging. Subsides in 8-12 weeks. Because azelaic acid helps normalize skin cell turnover, it can cause some purging, especially if your main skin concerns are acne, clogged pores, congested skin or maybe some texture. A lot of people think it's a reaction to the product and just quit using it, but it's a sign that your skin is clearing out and you want to push through it. Tip five: Potential irritation. Most common = itching & tingling. To keep that irritation minimal, you want to apply it to completely dry skin after cleansing, and then you can also consider buffering it with a moisturizing serum or a regular moisturizer and again, make sure you introduce it slowly into your routine. So now you know what to expect when starting azelaic acid. And follow me if you want more tips from a derm PA!