Vitamin C Pyramid

I'm a derm PA and this is the highly requested Vitamin C pyramid. Here is what Vitamin C actually does. It's an antioxidant that fades PIH, brightens, and boosts SPF protection. So you use it in the morning. But here's the thing most people miss: Type > strength. The type of Vitamin C matters just as much as the percent. So save this for reference so you know what to look for when you're shopping. Let's start with the most gentle: Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate or SAP. It's water soluble, stable, gentle, and really well tolerated. Next is Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, also known as THD. This one's oil soluble, it absorbs really well, especially if you have drier skin. The most affordable option is Vanicream with 5% THD. For stronger options, there's Medik8 with 20% and then Skinfix with 15%. Both SAP and THD are the gentle options to start with, especially if you have very sensitive, acne-prone skin, and you want to avoid irritation. Next, we have 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, or EAA. It's stable, a little more potent, but still pretty well tolerated. All of these gentle derivatives can be used once or twice a day, morning or night. But at the top is L-ascorbic acid. This is the gold standard, the most researched and most potent of the group. However, it's the least stable and has potential irritation risk because it sits at a low pH. Sweet spot is up to 20%. Going any higher just adds irritation without any benefit. So this one's favored to use in the morning only, and for people without sensitive or acne-prone skin. You do not have to avoid niacinamide with your Vitamin C. That's an old myth and they're totally fine to use together. You just want to keep it away from a leave-on BP because benzoyl peroxide can oxidize your Vitamin C and basically cancel it out. And if you're acne prone or sensitive, you want to start low with gentle Vitamin C derivatives and not jump straight into pure Vitamin C. You can move up the pyramid over time if your skin tolerates it. So now you know which Vitamin C is right for your skin. Follow for evidence based skincare tips from a derm PA! And follow me if you want more pyramids from a derm PA!