Post by @paradigmclimbing

Lemay: Episode 1 of "Elite Technique," my new series made for climbers who want to make hard moves feel easy and look suave AF while doing it. The Lemay is a sneaky lil thang. A technique lost to time one could say... Often described as a "back" or "reverse" Toehook/Heelhook, a Lemay can perform a similar functions as both of those techniques. The lemay allows you to leverage holds that FACE YOU or the direction you are trying to move towards, whereas heel and toehooks are used on holds that face away from you. I'll never forget the first time I saw someone use one to move through a sequence that I had set and thought there was only one way through it... @lucas_oddi proved me wrona and brouaht this move into my world 10 years ago (I had already been climbing for 10 years up to V12 too)! Since then, I have used them as the easiest method of execution in probably 500-1000 moves. At first, my body felt awkward and my hip flexors weak, since I hadn't ever done that type of pulling with my leg before. But quality reps, focus, baby oil, and time allowed me to polish up this method for keeping hip proximity to the wall and adding pulling force to moves! So if you want to learn this technique, I would recommend taking 15-Minutes at the start of 1-2 sessions per week to do exploratory learning and find easy versions; repeat them until thev feel 2nd nature and then make them harder and repeat. Over time, you'll find more and more opportunity for them in climbs you naturally choose. Have you ever done a Lemay? (Don't lie to me... I'Il know.) @Physivantage @cruxpowerclimbing @pitch.six @organicclimbing @fazabrushes @hardwoodholds @climbbutora #climbing #bouldering #sportclimbing #climbingtraining #strongertogether