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In France melon isn't a dessert, it's a starter, especially in the summer when it's too hot to cook. A cold ripe melon can be the beginning of a meal, one very special way to prepare it. Melon au Pineau des Charentes. Pineau is a French aperitif from the Charente region, made from grape juice and cognac. You cut the melon in half, remove the seeds, and make a little well in the center. Prick the melon gently with a fork so it can absorb a little. Pineau des Charentes. Chill Pineau des Charentes. Place it in the fridge. The melon becomes cold, fragrant and a little infused. Simple, a little old-fashioned, but so French. Divin! Absolument Divin!