Finding a parasitic draw the right way

Finding a parasitic draw the right way. Customer comes in with a completely dead battery. Put it on a charger, you test it and it's fine. The alternator checks out perfectly good and you send it back on the road. Three days later, it shows up on a tow truck. Here's the test. You didn't run parasitic draw is current flowing from the battery when the vehicle should be completely asleep. Normal sleep current on most modern vehicles is somewhere around 50 milliamps or a little bit less. After all modules go to sleep, that's keeping the key fob away from the car. However, some manufacturers do allow up to 80 milliamps, but it just depends. Anything above that is draining your battery overnight. Here's a correct procedure so this way you guys can test them out. Set your multimeter, set your current clamp over to DC amps. Connect it on over the ground side of the actual battery cable. And then once you do so, don't open any doors, don't touch anything and let the vehicle go to sleep. Most importantly, keep the key away from the car. The sleep process can take anywhere between 20 to 45 minutes depending on the actual vehicle. Once the current drops to a sleep level, read your actual draw using your amp probe. If it falls above spec, you wanna start pulling fuses one at a time while watching your actual meter. You see current drop when you pull a specific fuse. That circuit is your source. The mistake most techs make is pulling fuses before the modules go to sleep. Every module that's awake draws current. You'll chase the wrong circuit all day. Wait for the vehicle to go to sleep, then begin pulling fuses in that particular order. Every single time. I'll see you on the next one. The car never sleeps.